The Other Side of the Picture

Book excerpt: The idea of the backstage in fashion shows is simultaneously theatrical and authentic. It has the attributes of theater, with a curtain that separates the phenomenon of catwalk magic from the phenomenon of its magicians. However, the reality behind the spectacle is innately human. Somewhere in the middle of it all there is the designer. The designer is the centre around which the whole storm swirls. This is the world Julien Claessens entered with his first trip to Paris and the man behind it all was revolutionary designer Olivier Theyskens. When he was twenty, Olivier Theyskens dropped out of design school to create his first collection. Within the next year, Women's Wear Daily headlined his "Star Quality," Harpers Bazaar christened him an "Instant Icon," and The New York Times singled out his work in coverage of the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute, where it was already enshrined. That winter, Madonna wore Theyskens to the Oscars. In the decade since, he has lent his power to two international brands, "restoring the fortunes," as Vogue put it, of the house of Rochas, and then moving on to Nina Ricci as artistic director. His work has appeared on the cover of French, British, and American Vogue worn by Reese Witherspoon and Nicole Kidman, among other stars. Even the most casually fashion conscious consumers--occasional awards-show viewers and glossy-magazine readers--know his name, his striking face, and his dark, soft, and often-flattering aesthetic. Now, for the first time in his whirlwind career, through the beautiful photographs taken by Julien Claessens, Theyskens has made time to look back over his work and to press it into a book for worldwide distribution. Theysken's comments, "Julien's not running after the best-cut dresses," instead, "he's running after the moment." In essence, Claessens' beautiful visual montage captures more than merely a statement on fashion. Instead, he offers a comprehensive perspective paying homage to the authenticity of craftsmanship found in the world of fashion and bestows an intimate visual biography of the work of Olivier Theyskens, tracking his rise, cataloging his oeuvre, and offering a beautiful showcase for the romantic, mysterious, sumptuous garments on the volume's pages. Whether designing for Rochas, Nina Ricci or his own label, Olivier Theyskens has always wandered at the edges of beauty and refinement. Even though this young designer has experienced an unusual number of professional upheavals and fresh beginnings in a relatively short career, his vision has remained extraordinarily intact. AUTHOR Olivier Theyskens is a unique fashion icon heralding from Belgium who has been designing for over 10 years, he has worked with world renowned brands such as Rochas and Nina Ricci. This is his first book. PHOTOGRAPHER Julien Claessens has photographed Theyskens' work throughout his career. Julien is also from Belgium. ILLUSTRATIONS