Oahu's North Shore

Book excerpt: Considered the surfing capital of the world, the North Shore of O'ahu is where you'll find those famous surf spots that you've heard of - Sunset Beach, the Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay. It's also the most laidback part of the island, with only one major resort and a vast scattering of more low-key vacation rentals and beach bungalows. The North Shore area spans from La'ie on the northwestern side of the island to Kaena Point on the eastern edge. Although only about 40 miles from busy Waikiki, the mellow North Shore seems a world away. Restaurant reviews range from the most luxurious dining to the best take-out places. The top beaches; secret spots for snorkeling; the best outfitters for everything from diving to deep-sea fishing; the galleries and shops. Accommodations and activities for those traveling with children; how to get married on the island; the best honeymoon resorts; finding the lowest airfares and package deals. Where to fish, hike, play golf, tennis, scuba, ocean kayak, along with camping, horseback riding, biking, whalewatching - it's all here. Our author lives in Oahu. She has hiked the trails, taken the boats, scuba'd the reefs, dined in the restaurants, visited all the resorts, snorkeled the coastline, explored the hidden waterfalls and she shares all of her knowledge. This guide is drawn from our larger guide to Oahu.