My Vertical World

Book excerpt: My Vertical World is the story of a quiet family man from Silesia who was also a single-minded schemer, sailing close to the bureaucratic wind in Poland as well as Pakistan and Nepal, painting factory chimneys and thinking of Lhotse, juggling for most of the time with meagre hard currency, scarce food and indifferent gear to achieve the starting point western climbers took for granted. Slow to acclimatise, once he had done, Kukuczka's stamina and drive were formidable. Preferring where possible to climb alpine-style with one companion, among his more remarkable achievements are his solo ascent of a new route on Makalu; a first traverse of the North and Middle Summits of Broad Peak; climbing two 8000-metre peaks over 3000 kilometres apart in winter within twenty-five days; and making a new route up the middle of the South Face of K2 as a two-man team. His narrative takes the reader behind the catalogue of achievements to discover a diffident man, anxious for his good name, sobered by loss of friends, who can still view the antics of the international climbing circus with good humour, and climbed because his passion for his vertical world was an enveloping as it was infectious.