ReFUSING Fashion

Book excerpt: One of the most elusive fashion designers in the world, Rei Kawakubo of Japan, is known for remaking the forms of clothes. Her sweaters full of holes, jackets with only one sleeve and dresses that are part dress and part pants are unique, yet always wearable. She says she wants to "design clothes that have never yet existed." The exhibition included over 40 key garments, costumes from and film of the Cunningham performance, photographs, runway footage and ephemera. The exhibition aimed to present a view of Kawakubo's work as a series of interventions and dis-ruptions in the arena of style and fashion: whether her work is thought of as anti-fashion in the world of fashion, or of ugliness and clumsiness in a system classically devoted to good taste, Kawakubo's work is a constant process of renewal of vocabulary and thinking.