The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes

Book excerpt: Kari Blodig, who started the 4000 meter peak quest with his book is 1829, had identified 81 summits. However there were inconsistencies in the Blodig list. In 1994, a UIAA committee arbitrated on the obvious anomalies (some great multi-peak massifs had only their highest points noted, while other groups had every significant summit accredited). By using adjoining col depth as a guideline, the UIAA process settled on a new tally of 88 peaks. These not only took in the obvious heights of big peaks like Liskamm, Breithorn, Grand Combin, and Grandes Jonasses, but also drew attention to a number of proud individual rock gendarmes on the ridges of the higher peaks. In this second edition of his guide, Richard Goedeke has incorporated all the UIAA promoted peaks. In addition, he has noted seven extra summits that merit accreditation based on the new guidelines, and discusses the status of those listed that barely meet the criteria but are noted for other reasons. As some of the new peaks are easily reached in the process of other expeditions, their inclusion is largely academic. Other newly acclaimed summits bring an extra dimension to the 4000m list. The Grand Gendarme of the Weisshom, the Aiguilles du Diables on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the western summits of the Grandes Jorasses introduce new expeditions of considerable challenge to the 4000m odyssey.