The motion of water on a uniformly sloping beach, just after a bore reaches the shore, is studied. The shllow-water equations are used to fomulate a singular hy

The handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engin

Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the wa