Chasing the Ephemeral

Book excerpt: Being in the right place at the right time is critical when Scottish Winter Climbing. This guide will help you make the right choices ¿ do you go high or low, head east, west or north, or attempt snowed-up rock, mixed or ice climbs? With more than 600 new Scottish Winter Climbs to his credit, Simon Richardson reveals his simple strategy for success and selects 50 climbs to put on your hit-list. There is a detailed analysis of the strategy and tactics Scottish Winter Climbers need, taking into account Scotland¿s sometimes fickle conditions and unpredictable weather. There are sections on using weather forecasts, using the internet, avoiding avalanches, clothing and equipment, protection, navigation, timing, partners and psychology. Simon also presents 50 climbs mostly in the Grade III to VI range, specifically selected to match a variety of Scottish conditions. Each climb is supported by a map and topo, with access and descent details, route description, optimum conditions and top tips. Climbs include well-known classics and lesser-known gems. There are suggestions for more than 200 alternative routes from Grade II to Grade VII. Detailed overviews are included of approaches and descents on Ben Nevis with North Face panorama and map and summit descent bearings. There is also the largest ever collection of photographs of Scottish Winter Climbers in action! Simon Richardson has been climbing in the Scottish mountains in winter for the past 35 years and made more than 600 new ascents. As well as developing classic climbing areas such as Aonach Mor, Simon was instrumental in introducing the Scottish two-tier winter grading system, pioneered modern mixed climbing on Ben Nevis and is author of the Scottish Mountaineering Club¿s climbers¿ guide to Ben Nevis. During the winter he reports on the Scottish Winter Climbing scene in his popular blog scottishwinter.com.